Add new zest in your life!
Join Leona on a care-free, week-long adventure in beautiful Italy, with Da Vinci Capers. Immerse yourself in Italian culture and the arts by experiencing cooking, learning Italian language, painting, creative writing, music appreciation and photography, and, of course, La Dolce Vita!
We are literally steps away from the Jardin du Luxembourg – the Luxembourg gardens. Oh, what a delight! We have walked from one end to the other. Watched little kids have boat races, studied sculptures, listened to a Chopin concert, ate ice cream, and watched teams of Petanque (pronounced, pay-TONK) players. Even Leonina witnessed this grand sport.
Petanque is like lawn bowling or bocce ball. And it is, with the exception of having to stand feet together in a circle marked by your opponent. The history goes back to Egypt in 5200 B.C.! Clubs exist around the world. Here in France, it was first invented in 1907 specifically to allow people confined to a wheelchair. Just two weeks ago, celebrity Chefs had a fundraising competion to raise money for handicapped children and their families. From the young to the elderly, it’s a game for everyone to come, play and socialize.
Usually, there are two or three teams playing against each other. The idea is to throw a little yellow ‘cochonnet’ (means, piglet in French) up to 30 feet away. Then, you want to bowl or throw the ‘boules’ as close to the cochonnet as possible. There’s a point system and the team that reaches 13 first wins.
Having returned a few times, we noticed that team members like to stay together. We learned that each person (mostly men, it seems) have designated strengths for different jobs to become a successful team. One person may be a good ‘pointer’ - throwing the ball as close to the little piglet as possible. Another teammate is the tireur, the striker – one who is able to strike the opponent’s boules out from near the piglet. Then lastly, the milieu, a jack-of-all-trade, one who is generally good all-around. One of these people will be the ‘director’ who makes strategic and tactical decisions – usually the one with the most experience.
It’s all in the concentration and being able to focus “like a robot” that will bring a team up the ranks. We could tell that it was fun, yet serious. Lines drawn, balls clicking, rolling, wiped by an old cloth, cigs dangling. The man in the blue shirt actually went into a trance-like mode. He was the ‘striker’ and was 95% right on. Chit-chatting with us on the side-lines, we all laughed and had some winking going on. Then, I think the man in the blue shirt said with a smile, “Your chicken would like to go swimming in the lake?”, or something like this. It was time for Leonina to go into hiding for a while…
Just watching made me want to get up and give it a try. But, I don’t have a set of boules (your personal boules are stored in a wooden hut). In addition, I think it was a private club. Not sure how I would fair since I’m terrible at bowling. But, great at ping pong! I guess these hefty guys don’t bounce. In any case it has been great fun watching them and learning about this popular French sport.
Oh, yes! If you ever go to this park, you should know that it’s like Lego-land. There are three difference kind of movable chairs. People pick them up, move them around into different configurations to read, sleep, people-watch or socialize. It’s like a game in itself – everyone eying up their next chair they will scoop up (and these are heavy metal!). Tre interessant!
“Sure, Mike, take the key with you… Laurent will be here at 9:00″, I said to my husband as he went off to his scientific meeting outside of Paris. I now sit here as a prisoner in my own apartment.
“I will drop off the extra key on Monday at 9:00 am, and check-out on Friday, at 7:00 pm.” Laurent, the representative said in English, and I heard it clear as a bell (in fact, wrote the check-out info on the Paris calendar). After calling Laurent at the office, on his cell, to his assistant, I finally found a general office number for Agence Eliya, the management company for my apartment. After two communications, this new fellow finally said, “Sorry. We will pick up the keys at 5:00 and bring them to you then.”
Since we’ve lived here before and I’m on the tail-end of a cold, it’s not earth-shaking. I have salad makings, my computer, my book and 2003 Chateau Lamonthe Bergeron bottle of wine. But, most people would be furious – needing to go site-see, shop and explore around, come back for a rest and do it again in the afternoon.
I think what bothers me is the attitude of total indifference. The French are famous for just being down-right rude and so superior. I’ve never really experience this with the exception in Avignon on one trip (and I think the person was German in disguise). When we lived here, people were genuinely nice helping me with hair cuts, shopping, cooking lessons, and in my general stumbling around. Even in our 48 hours on this return visit, the woman in line at Bon Marche went out-of-her-way being helpful and Pary, the owner of France Insiders, who rented this apartment to us, has been as nice and helpful as can be!
Being one to give huge benefit-of-the-doubt to everyone in the world, I think the “French Rudeness” leans heavily in the service businesses – just the place you think they would have to be 150% nice and accommodating. After my Le Rousseau restaurant experience with the rude waiter, I thought, “Oh, he’s so tired – just look at him.” Now, I just think he was being indifferent – not going to waste his time nor energy on us (or me, the shoes broke the straw). Rude. Indifferent. Not the same, but both will get you pissed.
It’s a curious thing and talked about a lot – this French rudeness. I was reading last night The Collected Traveler – Paris. An Inspired Anthology & Travel Resource, by Barrie Kerper. It’s a great little gem. As I flipped through it, I came across an article written by Joseph Voelker, called, “The French, Rude? Mais Non!” Voelker’s point is to give the French a break – they get brow-beaten as a child to know their language perfectly and their country has been invaded by foreigners since Caesar in 52 B.C. , thus the disdain for tourists. I think this is a stretch, but the article is laugh-out-loud funny! (And, I can relate to it with similar stories in Italian!)
So, here I wait, in my Christo-orange “gates of Central Park” top, and ruddy-brown Magaschoni pants waiting for the keys…maybe it’s the Italian clothes? Or, perhaps Laurent mumbled something else that I did not hear?… No. They just don’t care.
Our first meal in Paris – Le Rousseau Brasserie. For the next week, our calendar moves by meals, not by days.
In a somewhat zombie state, we walk our new neighborhood that borders on the Luxembourg Gardens. We are searching for the perfect place to experience our first dinner in this beautiful city of Paris. Little beads of sweat drip down my back as we look for a restaurant with outdoor seating. We walk past a bustling brasserie called “Le Rousseau” and I notice there are two seats open on the skinny sidewalk, but they’re squeezed between smoking fiends, so we continue. If our kids were with us (or friends, for that matter), we would start to hear grumbling about how Mike and I always try to find the perfect restaurant. Our clock and calendar revolves around dining, and we only have eight dinners on this trip to Paris.
We soon realized that Le Rousseau would be the one. We opted for an inside table with plenty of fresh air flowing and settled in. It was already 10:00 pm – still early by their watch.
This spot was the happy home for young and old – a young couple to our right, middle aged lovers to our left, and older man with a young honey straight ahead. With each couple, the man is fondling the woman’s hand with an occasional raising to his lips for a sweet kiss. Suddenly, I recall all the kissing and hugging when we lived here ten years ago. Ah… so wonderful!
“Mike, so much hand-kissing!”, as he picked up my hand to kiss it. Yes, I decided that I could live here. I started to peek at the menu. Another problem I have: What do I feel like? What could they be good at making? What day of the week is it – how fresh? What do I feel like spending? A million thoughts fly through my head, but I can’t stop looking at the hand-kissing and now the chickens! What’s with the chickens? Should have I brought Leonina with me instead of leaving her on the fireplace mantel?
Henri Rousseau was known for his wild, flat and colorful jungle animals, not chickens! Nothing matched. Large vases, a few oriental pieces and nice crystal chandeliers, too beautiful for a brasserie. Then, I spied a little book on Rousseau propped up in the corner on the inset bookshelves. I see a large painting with ‘Rousseau’ written and the word, Litteraire. I think we’re talking about the other Rousseau! Jean-Jacques Rousseau – the philosopher and writer of hundred years earlier! (Note: if you read the links, you will see that both Rousseaus started their artistic career in their early 50′s! Now, that’s encouragement to start a new creative hobby!)
Back to the menu. I’m really not that hungry, jet-lagged and my body is just ‘off.’ I decided I’m looking for nothing heavy, just good comfort food. And, onion soup jumped up and said ‘pick me!’ It’s one of the foods that I’ve made since the Julia Child days – so, I know my onion soup and, well, we’re in France, right? Mike decides on a hangar steak with a shallot sauce, pomme frites (french fries) with a mini salad.
Okay. This is how it goes: the waiter comes over to your table. No smile. “What do you want?” “Onion soup,” I reply with a big smile, “and a glass of white wine from the Basque region.” In French (of course), “Only one glass?!” “Oui!,” I reply. He asked one more time and I replied one more time. Mike ordered his meal and it went somewhat smoother.
I know my French is terrible bordering on non-existent, and I know I’m not 20 any longer… but, why the sourpuss face? My soup came. Am I crazy? Ordering hot soup on a hot night? I didn’t care – it was like mamma bear, pappa bear: it felt just right! The broth was fresh, not heavy, not too many onions, thin bread on top, yummy cheese (not too much) and burnt edges (a taste of nostalgia of mom burning toast in the oven for our breakfast!) I loved it! Feeling a little guilty about skimping on the main, I ordered a creme brulee, a dessert everyone thinks is French and every country claims it. I must confess, I’ve made this dessert many times (see recent blog for a no-fail recipe) and this was also perfect: not too thick, not eggy, cool – not cold or too warm, dark caramelized sugar (to the point of black in some places) with a large surface area. Yum…
You become a keen observer in an unfamiliar place. I noticed the old man did the same thing – ordered one bowl of onion soup. No one left additional change for the tip (we did – not sure why), everyone drank at least a bottle of wine per table, salads were their specialty (although, they said moules – mussels, which unfortunately, I can’t eat any longer – so very sad), and no one wore tennis shoes or anything remotely like a sport shoe.
I threw my cross-trainers in (with orthotics) in the last minute of packing. I told myself that I might be sorry if the plantar fasciitis came back, no matter how much it cost me in fashion points. We returned to our flat that evening and Mike was lounging reading a book on Paris. He reads out loud, “Do not order just one glass of wine… and do not wear tennis shoes out to dinner.”
Well, the sourpuss could have been the expression of disdain of my wearing ugly shoes and ordering less than a bottle of wine! I know this from living here and in Manhattan – you at least carry your nice shoes with you. I must have been really jet-lag! But, the onion soup and creme brulee was worth it!
Seventy years ago, Winston Churchill gave a speech to rally his countrymen against the possible invasion from Nazi-occupied France. In yesterday’s New York Times’ article, John Burns spoke about Churchill’s speech that has become known as his ‘finest hour’ speech.
The article talks about Churchill writing his own speeches, and with this particularly famous speech, how he edited his own work up to the second he uttered the words. I’m not surprised. It was a passionate speech. It came from his gut. And, it would affect people in all social and economic stratum.
What I didn’t know was that he purposefully wrote it in a blank verse format – in a five line paragraph compared with the Old Testament Book of Psalms – a structure that evidently influenced Shakespeare and Churchill’s style. The idea is that it looks, it speaks and feels like poetry – a rhythm that brought life to the words. This is genius. This is beautiful.
Eight years earlier, before becoming England’s Prime Minister, Churchill wrote “Amid These storms.” Within this book, he wrote an essay on “Painting as a Pastime.” Many years ago, a friend told me about this little gem, and since then I’ve been searching for it in used book stores around the world. One year, I even bought every copy in the U.S. for a group of Da Vinci Capers’ participants coming on our trip to Tuscany!
Churchill was 61 years old when he wrote this essay. He talks about how, at the age of 40, it took ‘audacity’* to pick up a paint brush and try something new. Imagine! Churchill feeling ‘audacity’ picking up a paint brush his aunt handed him.
While at a dinner party last evening, a friend and highly successful businessman in his 70′s, lamented how slowly he felt improvement with his childhood love - painting. I thought about this since I have all but thrown my violin in the lake, and have more than once, almost set the house on fire with my “Lucy in the Kitchen” routines.
But, Churchill encourages us to love our ‘mature mind’ and not be a self dooming critic, but appreciate the beauty and to endure an interest. Also Leonardo da Vinci quoted, “Obstacles cannot crush me, every obstacle yields to stern resolve.” Another great quote of his, “The greatest deception men suffer is from our own opinions.”
While Boomers think and talk and talk about how to spend their last third of their lives, I thought I would quote the first page of Churchill’s essay, “Painting as a Pastime:”
“Many remedies are suggested for the avoidance of worry and mental over-strain by persons who, over prolonged periods, have to bear exceptional responsibilities and discharge duties upon a very large scale. Some advise exercise, and others, repose. Some counsel travel, and others, retreat. Some praise solitude, and others, gaiety. No doubt all these may play their part according to the individual temperament. But the element which is constant and common in all of them is Change.
Change is the master key. A man can wear out a particular part of his mind by continually using it and tiring it, just in the same way as he can wear out the elbows of his coat. There is, however, this difference between the living cells of the brain and inanimate articles: one cannot mend the frayed elbows of a coat by rubbing the sleeves or shoulders; but the tired parts of the mind can be rested and strengthened, not merely by rest, but by using other parts. It is not enough merely to switch off the lights which play upon the main and ordinary field of interest; a new field of interest must be illuminated. (continued)
The cultivation of a hobby and new forms of interest is therefore a policy of first importance to a public man. But this is not a business that can be undertaken in a day or swiftly improvised by a mere command of the will. The growth of alternative mental interest is a long process. The seeds must be carefully chosen; they must fall on good ground; they must be sedulously tended, if the vivifying fruits are to be at hand when needed.” He waxes more philosophy by saying, ” It is no use doing what you like; you have got to like what you do.”
Whether it’s painting, reading, photography, or writing a speech for your countrymen – you have to like what you are doing to truly feel that passion.
*”The first quality that is needed is Audacity. There really is no time for the deliberate approach. Two years of drawing lessons, three years of copying woodcuts, five years of plaster casts – these are for the young… We must not be too ambitious. We cannot aspire to masterpieces. We may content ourselves with a joy ride in a paint-box. And for this Audacity is the only ticket.” Winston S. Churchill
If you love drama and don’t like being precise in your cooking – skip this post.
Drama, it is. Precise ingredients, even more so – but, it’s worth it! I’m not a worrier in the kitchen. I put on the music, open the wine, and pretend I’m a ‘top’ chef and artist combine. But, there are a few desserts you must put on your ‘chemist’ hat and sta attento – pay attention!
Typically, I don’t get too fancy with the main meal, but try to finish it with a ‘wow’ dessert – something that my guests will remember. There are three highly-memorable desserts that fit into this get-the-measuring-cup category: Croquenbush, Crème Brulee and Pannacotta.
The first is the most compelling and created for weddings in France. Tiny cream puffs filled with chocolate and/or vanilla cream. These puffs are then stacked on top of each other forming a pyramid, sometimes feet high. The hard part is spinning a web of golden sugar around it creating a net-like affect. I learned how to do this while living in Paris at the Le Cordon Bleu. The trick is to work fast between rolling pins – almost like a dance. And, even though I’m a decent dancer, I suck at this.
One Thanksgiving I decided this would be the perfect dessert to off-set a sorry turkey. As I started the construction, I realized (too late) that I didn’t have a platter large enough. So, I reached for the lid of a new garbage can and lined in with foil. (This made for good conversation the whole night!). It was pretty amazing; but, I would not recommend making this dessert without the supervision of the fire department, two medics, and a live-in cleaning person.
Moving on to the remaining desserts: crème brulee or pannacotta. When I go into a nice restaurant, I always ‘test’ their pastry chef by ordering either dessert. I know this sounds a little obnoxious. It’s a bad habit since my course with Alan Richman (note: Amen on Alan’s 10:8 of commandments; but thumbs down on white wine theory – sorry, Alan!) You’ll fast become an expert to the difference between good and exceptional (or terrible – one local chef totally forgot even a pinch of sugar!).
Neither dessert is difficult. Crème brulee is fun because you can have everyone use the mini-torch to caramelize their own sugar. It doesn’t have the eggy taste of flan and has a beautiful custard consistency.
But if you are a ‘texture person’, pannacotta is your choice. It is not only beautiful to look at, it is light and silky as angel’s feathers, has the perfect amount of sweetness and a deep flavor (use a real, fresh vanilla bean). If you want, you can dress it up with a nice fruit sauce (berry coulis) and a small piece of dark chocolate.
Pannacotta means ‘cooked cream’ in Italian. It’s a misnomer, since you do not cook the cream and only warm up a little milk . The origin of the dessert seems to be a mystery. Some say it is from northern region of Piedmonte, where the best red grapes are grown (in my opinion) in all of Italy. This also seems strange to me since when I think ‘cows’, I think very north or very south.
I will tell you the tricks and secrets. It’s simple – only having five ingredients: whole milk, heavy cream, gelatin, sugar and vanilla… and a pinch of salt. I have tried many recipes, all have various proportions and ingredients. The one that is consistent and outrageously good is from Cook’s Illustrated. (I will give a nod to Giuliano Bugialli’s Foods of Italy. A book that I have cooked almost every recipe while bartering for violin lessons. He has a number of winners (pannacotta is not one) and my favorite pesto recipe with walnuts and spinach!)
As “Cook’s” said, “What makes this simple chilled Italian cream great?
Balanced proportions, sound technique, and a light hand with the gelatin.”
Have you little ramekins ready on the counter with a small ladle. (photo shows ice cream cups that I used for my 13 – 16 serving)
Make sure you have enough ice – crucial to reduce temperature (double what they say)
Have a damp, clean cloth near bowls to wipe off edges dribbled with cream (like they do on Top Chef!)
Have handy one (or two, if doubling) instant read thermometers that go down to 50 degrees – crucial
Don’t forget step of covering with saran wrap
If doubling batch, divide the batch in two for the ice bath and have another person working with you to stir
The cold bath cools the mixture suddenly to 50 degrees – you’ll go along, la la la… then, wham! It’s 50 degrees!
Don’t worry if you don’t strain it – it will still be an 8 or 9 on a scale of 10
Use a whisk if it gets too cool too fast and you need to smooth out the baby lumps (whisk low in bowl not getting too much air)
Truly measure everything – you can get a little sloppy with sugar, but not the gelatin (open packets in a bowl and measure from there)
Turn down the music and don’t have any interference (I had new friends sitting at the counter, daughter and family dropping by, and a sister on the phone. Yikes!)
Rinse the pots and utensils right away – it’s not like egg yolk, but dried cream can dry like cement.
When releasing the baby ramekins, use a table knife to run around the edge after holding a few seconds in the warm water bath. Using your thumb is a little more difficult first time, so turn it upside down on your plate and tuck the edge of the knife to the bottom of the ramekin to do a mini-pry. (a pry-away stroke if you are canoer) It will pop out right away. If not, hold it in the warm bath for another second.
On second thought, you could always call 911 Lidia in Manhattan and have a couple desserts sent your way! Squisito! Delicious, Exquisite!
Some of you have asked me, “How did you come up with Da Vinci Capers?!” This is a good place to tell you. It was a combination of conscious decisions, a dream and an epiphany. (Nota Bene: For those of you who have been on a Da Vinci Capers’ trip and already know my story – mi dispiace… I’m sorry!)
I was a late bloomer getting my undergraduate degree and was heading in the MBA program when I suddenly changed my mind. Humanities sounded much more fun - studying the classics, art and Italian. I needed 3 credits to finish and randomly took a sculpting course. I was in love. Since I knew Italian, I studied an Italian text on slip-casting and creating architectural sculpture by Nino Caruso. Commissions fell out of the sky and suddenly, public television wanted to interview me. This was a turning point – did I want to continue in this field? I loved design and sculpting, but frankly, it was plain hard work. Also, breathing silica was not good… but basil was! So, I called a friend who ran one of the first cooking vacations in Italy figuring that I could cook well and knew a lot, had the Italian connections, and some business background.
My friend so happened to need someone to market her business, chit-chat with people (I’m really good at this) and go over to Italy to run her programs. From the start, she knew that I loved art and that eventually I would do something on my own; but, this was a win-win: I could help her build her business and I would learn about how to do business internationally.
I can’t explain how excited I was to run my first program. Just standing on the stone terrace overlooking the vineyards in the early morning, dew kissing the big broad leaves that were just beginning to turn crimson, large purple clusters dangling down while, in the distance, I could hear exotic peacocks calling. Entrusting me with her group of 15 people, my boss left for a Slow Food Convention in Bra. This was the early days of Slow Food. It was the buzz in Europe and slowly moving across the Atlantic. But, I was happy as a clam being with my small group in a Tuscan agriturismo.
Standing outside my little apartment, I remember saying, “Ciao! Have a great time! Non-preoccupata! Don’t worry!” Then, the next thing I remember is that I was crawling on all fours to the bathroom. Suddenly, out of nowhere, I felt deathly sick. One talent that I have failed to mention is that I can squelch throwing up – a phobia I have since a child. I have mastered splashing water, draping cool washcloths just so, moving a certain way to recover in record time. After all these tricks, I pulled myself up, straightened my clothes, combed my hair as if I were Harriet on the Ozzie and Harriet Show.
Off I went to meet our guests. We all huddled in a little bar off the restaurant. I went through introductions and the week’s itinerary. Everyone was jazzed to start to learn to cook the real Italian way with a handsome Italian Chef who spoke little English but made great sweeping hand motions and fast movements around our ‘stations.’
That evening I rested my head on my pillow thinking, “Ah, this is the life… a great group of people in a beautiful setting in Tuscany…” Knock, knock on my door. It was midnight. Out of a deep sleep, I heard the words, “Your guests are very ill. Come right away!” Several people had been violently sick for hours and I needed to call a doctor to come and give them shots and to rehydrate them.
Then, the rains came – torrential, flowing in sheets. The doctor knew no English and I remember translating: “Yes – she still feels sick. It started after dinner. Is she allergic?” Plowing through the puddles, we made bedside visits from one apartment to the next.
I stood outside for a breather, leaning up against the wet stone wall, but shielded by a little overhang. I remember looking up into the black night and thinking, “Why have I been placed here in Dante’s Inferno? How could this be happening?” I held it together until I reached my room and just cried and cried.
The next morning we were supposed to get into a bus and go to an herb farm while the Chef started preparations in the kitchen. I looked at everyone and knew that I needed to change the itinerary – first day on the job and I’m already changing everything… I called an artist friend who lived a couple villages away in Panzano.
“Bring all of your supplies here as soon as possible – we need an art lesson!” I said. That morning, we sat under the cool purple wisteria, overlooking the rolling vineyard, sipping Pellegrino. We were taught about washes, masking, perspective, using brushes and sponges, sun direction, how to create shadows… Most everyone had never picked up a paint brush and were holding in their hands a painting they were proud of.
Afterward, a man came over to me and touched my shoulder to catch my attention. He was the physician from Sacramento. My first thought was he will insist that we go to the herb farm – it’s on the schedule after all. But, when I looked up I saw tears in his eyes. “Thank you so much for creating this art experience… I know that we are in a cooking school.” He continued, “You see, I forgot how much I loved to draw and paint. As a little boy, I used to do this and remembered loving it. I’ve come here thinking I would take up cooking as a hobby to off-set my horrendous work schedule. Now I know. I will study painting.”
Well, we stood together with tears rolling down our cheeks. It was at that moment I knew there are probably many people who have forgotten what they loved as a child. Most of us are on career tracks and raising our children. And now, we are in the information age getting constantly bombarded. Somehow, we need to carve out time to spark our passions, remember what we loved, discover new interests. We’re more complicated than just being ‘a doctor’, or ‘lawyer’, or ‘mother.’
This is why I created Da Vinci Capers ~ A Personal Renaissance Journey. I want people to discover the passion in themselves and to instill new zest in their lives. Experiencing moments – even half days – with talented and heart-felt teachers, all in a spirited and beautiful setting, is the recipe. It doesn’t get much better.
P.S. I’ve spoken about the conscious decision and my epiphany. To hear about the dream… stay tuned. (Hint: What’s black and white and green underneath?)
P.S.S. The illness came from a broken pipe on the property and all the clients in agriturismo, including staff, became ill – terribile!